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Post by robzilla on Nov 17, 2015 18:57:03 GMT -8
Having some timing issues after cylinder head swap. `I set cyl one tdc by the timing mark indicated in my manual. Manual also states to strap the camshaft to the chain so it does not move. Well my did so by my understand I should have the dowel or key way straight up as well yes?
My other question comes in regards to firing order. The book literally shows the cylinder numbers as 1,2,3,4 but its stamped different on the valve cover. My assumption is that I just follow what the manual says but have had no luck.
I spent plenty of time trying to find a detailed image, I found reference to other mazda motors in which those cam gears had 1,2,3,4 or a,b,c stamped on them but my cam gear only has a 3 and a 0.
Appreciate any tips or input on these.
thanks
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Post by classicjackets on Nov 18, 2015 11:11:21 GMT -8
The stamp on the valve cover is indicative of the firing order, not the order of the cylinders. So, your book is right in labeling the cylinders 1-4 straight up, but it should be set to fire cyl 1, cyl 3, then cyl 4, then cyl 2 (if I'm remembering correctly from the valve cover). Is thiswith the 1.8L motor?
I'll dig into my book a little later this afternoon and post back up if my understanding is the same as yours for the dowel/key way.
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Post by robzilla on Nov 18, 2015 17:59:31 GMT -8
Thanks, id appreciate it. Although now at this point I'm thinking of pulling the entire motor and going long term rebuild. Get tired of seeing oil leaks and build up everywhere.
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Post by robzilla on Nov 21, 2015 8:39:39 GMT -8
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Post by robzilla on Nov 21, 2015 8:40:37 GMT -8
It even looks like someone made a mark on the cam gear in the past at some point.
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Post by classicjackets on Nov 22, 2015 13:29:02 GMT -8
Marks on the crank look correct. I haven't done the timing on the camshaft side of things before and my understanding of the book on that point was not great. Points are gapped correctly? I can see the condenser is new so that's good. I do see the older mark on the camshaft as well. Maybe I'll post this link over on the FB page and get some extra knowledge? We still don't seem to get a ton of traffic here.
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Post by robzilla on Nov 22, 2015 13:31:28 GMT -8
I wouldn't sweat it. I got ahold of Brueske and he helped me out. Then I broke a machine screws trying to line up the rocker arms so now I'm going to pull the whole motor and evaluate from there. Probably will start a build thread soon. Let's get some traffic in here! Thanks for the input though.
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Post by classicjackets on Nov 22, 2015 15:39:27 GMT -8
Ouch. Hopefully you can get it all figured out. And absolutely start a build thread! Then post a link to FB haha, we're going to have to entice people to come on over..
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Post by robzilla on Nov 22, 2015 15:41:30 GMT -8
Good thinking, I'm pondering going the same route as you actually so I'll make sure to go over your thread. I'm going to gut the bay and start my thread from there.
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Post by pishta68 on Dec 8, 2015 20:49:35 GMT -8
The way I remember it was that you line up the keyways on both crank and camshaft (up) to get close BUT you have to count the links between the crank gear tick (the shiny double links straddle it) and the camshaft gear tick (the single shiny link sits on top of it). There should be 44 links between, counting the very bottom shiny link, then counting up the right hand side (over the 2nd link) of the chain if the motor is upright. I just confirmed that. And the key are both straight up.
PS>> I have ONLY seen this procedure in the "1981 Mazda workshop manual" your chain may not have shiny links at all, but precise "keys up" should work. Remember the timing chain tensioner behind the water pump under that 3 bolt cover.
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Post by chip on Feb 9, 2021 18:57:25 GMT -8
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