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Post by chip on Jun 21, 2016 8:33:54 GMT -8
Anyone out there ever put a magneto ignition in a Courier? I know it's an odd idea but here is the problem I am having. I replaced the points and condenser with a Pertronics electronic ignition system, and it ran fine when I was driving on the street. Still runs fine now that I am racing the truck, but the timing jumps all over the place. when I hit it with the timing light I get 5 or 6 degrees of bounce around at idle. Then, when I am on a run down the track, the tach starts to jump all over the place when I get over 4,500 rpm. Makes it really hard to hit my shift point! I end up shifting by ear and feel, but that is not good for consistency. The distributor is a remanufactured unit I bought a few years ago, and the shaft still feels tight so I don't know what the problem is. So I was thinking of a magneto, but I don't know if anyone makes one that will work in these old things. Any Ideas would be appreciated!! |
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Post by torq4u on Jun 21, 2016 20:41:58 GMT -8
we use to run all distributors on a sun distributor tester , if you find someone with one could solve a lot of headache . and magneto's I don't remember if they ever made one for it ?
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Post by chip on Jun 22, 2016 19:30:12 GMT -8
Who has a sun tester these days, that's the question, and can it test the electronic ignition I installed?
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Post by chip on Jul 18, 2016 10:41:51 GMT -8
Just a quick follow up on this. I started researching why timing jumps around and discovered that it is usually either too much end play in the cam or too much end play in the distributor shaft. I broke out the dial mic. and checked the camshaft. 0.0045 end play - the spec is .001. So I had to remove the thrust plate, tricky because if you drop a screw you are going to have to tear the whole engine down to remove it. But once it was off, sure enough there was a very visible wear stripe that was deep enough to catch my fingernail on. So I honed the surface using 600 grit sandpaper followed by 1500 grit on a perfectly flat surface. When I reassembled and checked, the endplay was down to just under one thousandth. Then came the distributor. The distributor shaft had .013 of end play. I couldn't find a spec for what it should be, but .013 seemed like too much. so I pulled of the drive gear to see what shims were on it, and I pulled apart my old distributor and robbed the shims from it. By juggling the shim stack I was able to get the end play down to .008. I'd like to have seen it down around .005, but this was the best I could do with the shims I had. Re-installed the dist. and set the timing. It still moves a bit, but nothing like as bad as it was. Now it stays put within 1 or 2 degrees, much better! |
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Post by courierguy on Jul 19, 2016 23:10:46 GMT -8
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Post by chip on Jul 20, 2016 8:23:36 GMT -8
This looks about the same as the Pertronics unit that I used, 'bout the same price too. A note here: If you are considering ordering one of these systems, get the numbers off your distributor and call the manufacturer before ordering. These couriers used 4 or 5 different single point distributors over the years and while they all will fit any year Courier, they are not all the same. The first Pertronics unit I ordered was listed as compatible with the '73, but it didn't fit either of the two distributors I had. I had to send it back to the e-bay company I bought from, and go directly to Pertronics, send them photos and numbers of my dist. so they could send me the right unit. Totally worth the trouble - no more points to gap, NICE. |
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Post by courierguy on Jul 21, 2016 0:28:03 GMT -8
before I ordered it I checked my distributor, and I saw it was a hitachi distributor and I checked
the auction and it said it would fit a hitachi distributor for a 73 courier.
It fit and runs great.
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Post by shaydetree on Dec 14, 2017 2:10:02 GMT -8
Dunno if it helps, but I'm running a GM 4 prong ign module with a distributor from an 84 ford ranger p/u. Totally trouble free & dependable, & my tach is plenty steady. Just throwing it out there...
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Post by chip on Apr 22, 2019 10:23:58 GMT -8
Now I'm really on the hunt for a distributorless ignition system for it so I can control the advance curve. Probably have to Frankenstein something onto it.
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ridgeforest@yahoo.com
Guest
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Post by ridgeforest@yahoo.com on Apr 20, 2021 20:06:53 GMT -8
I have a new in the box Motorcraft distributor
Ford/Motorcraft
DAE-1612
D67Z-12127-E
Fits Ford,
Courier (71-82),
Ranger/ Bronco II (83- up)
Explorer (91 and later)
Ford service parts.
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pishta
Junior Member
Posts: 21 
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Post by pishta on Nov 14, 2021 14:58:19 GMT -8
run a 36-1 wheel and Fords EDIS-4 ignition. There are free schematics and BOM's for the original Megajolt Jr. 10x10 Tuneable ignition.
On an easier note. An electronic ignition off a early 80s Mazda B2000 series or early 80's 2.0 626 will drop right in and uses a very simple Hitachi ignitor. My timing is rock stable at idle on up with a timing light. Im not sure mags have an advance mechanism. The Taylor/Vertex I had for a 426 was a beast, race only.
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