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Post by doubletrouble7274 on May 6, 2016 4:41:06 GMT -8
I'm wanting to replace the stock carb on my '74. I plan to service the stock one in the hopes of learning as well as fixing it. I've been doing some looking around and it seems a Weber carb is the one most used for the 1.8. I was wondering from those who do have it, what modifications you may of made to get it to function properly? I am somewhat new to the world of carburetors. I've been doing some reading and video watching but any info and help you can provide is greatly appreciated.
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Post by chip on May 6, 2016 11:17:12 GMT -8
Webber offers two kits specifically for the Courier, a 32/36 progressive linkage and a 38/38 synchronous. For street driving you want the 32/36 with the progressive linkage, it will give you the best drivability. As for tuning, if your engine is basically stock (which it has to be since there are no performance parts available!) this carb will work nicely right out of the box. You may have to fiddle with the linkage a bit but nothing severe. A plug check after driving it around for a day or two will tell you if the mixture is off, but it will probably be just fine.
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Post by doubletrouble7274 on May 15, 2016 5:20:48 GMT -8
Thank you! I appreciate the feedback. I will look into getting one.
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Post by smalcome on Aug 4, 2018 12:12:03 GMT -8
Thank you! I appreciate the feedback. I will look into getting one. how'd it go with the new carb? |
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Post by Richie on Oct 22, 2019 15:38:20 GMT -8
Just replaced my old carb with a weber 32/36. What do I do with the fuel return line and the line that goes to the charcoal canister??? (73 Courier 1.8)
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Post by Richie on Jun 2, 2020 20:19:18 GMT -8
Ok, so just an update. I've had some hesitation issues after installing the weber. Apparently the weber likes a PSI around 3.5-4. My stock pump runs at about 3 and the gauge fluctuates pretty good while its running, so I ordered a Carter P4070 which has a PSI of 4-8. I'm going to install it this weekend with a regulator and see if it helps. I'm thinking with the stock pump running at 3 PSI, that maybe its causing the accelerator pump to have a weak squirt which could cause hesitation. We'll see...
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Post by Richie on Oct 20, 2020 4:51:21 GMT -8
Got the fuel pump in and it boosted the PSI to 6. I emailed the people at Carter and they said it does not require a regulator, but I'm still having a hesitation or bogging issue... I pulled a plug and it's not white or gray, it actually black, so maybe I'm getting too much fuel??? Its not back firing, but there is a noticeable fuel smell and more exhaust smoke than I like to see.
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Post by Richie on Dec 9, 2020 16:06:06 GMT -8
Tried dropping the primary main jet down to 135 and increasing the air corrector jet size to 215 and 210....still f*cking bogging. I cant figure this out....
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Post by chip on Feb 8, 2021 15:03:28 GMT -8
Webers are very sensitive to fuel pressure and also float level. Get the pressure correct and get the float level right BEFORE you mess with the jetting - save yourself a world of troubles.
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Post by Richie on Apr 14, 2021 6:22:30 GMT -8
I uploaded a video on YouTube of what my carb is doing when I step on the gas. I think its flooding, but I can't seem to keep it from doing this. I jetted it down to the smallest jets in the redline kit for this motor, but still have this issue. Should I try a different regulator since the weber is sensitive to pressure? I have one of those Autozone dial style regulators, but I've been thinking of upgrading to one of the edelbrock or holley ones (1-4 psi). Could this fix the problem??? It smells of fuel pretty bad and boggs down when I step on the gas and the carb makes a weird sucking sound (should be able to hear it on the video). I'm new to tuning carbs, so I'm kind of stuck here.
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Post by chip on Apr 16, 2021 13:25:32 GMT -8
Hi Richie, Weber carbs are a unique breed. When they work, they really work great, when they don't, they don't! Do not despair, I think we can sort this out. Before you worry about the jetting there are a few things you need to do so you are not just chasing your tail. First: You are correct about having the fuel pressure set right. It isn't super critical that the pressure be a certain number, but it should be between about 3 and 5psi and it should be pretty consistent. Second: Set the float level exactly right. Check on-line for the procedure and the numbers, but it must be correct or your mixture will never be right no matter what jets you use.
Once you have these two things right, half your troubles are behind you . . . but not all of them. The single most common situation, that accounts for 90% of tuning problems on Weber carbs (according to Weber - and I believe them) is mis-adjusting the idle speed screw. And I can tell from the video and your description that this is causing you problems here. The idle speed screw MUST NOT be screwed in more than about 1/2 turn. I'm not talking about the idle mixture needle here, but the screw that nudges open the throttle to control idle speed. If this is screwed in more than that 1/2 turn or so, the butterfly is pushed open enough to uncover the "enriching ports" which pull in gas directly, bypassing the idle jets. This gives you a very rich idle mixture and fouls the plugs causing hesitation, stumbling and even stalling as you start to get on the gas. So once the fuel pressure and float levels are set, do the following: 1) back off the idle speed screw completely, then screw it until it JUST TOUCHES and go about 1/2 turn further. I know this doesn't seem like it will be enough, and in the end it might have to be a little more, but this is your starting point. 2) turn in the idle mixture screw(s) until they just barely seat, don't turn them hard or you will damage them. Now back them out 1 or 1 1/2 turns. 3) put in the idle jets that came in it from the factory, probably something like 45's or maybe 50's. You mention changing the jets, I assume that you were changing the idle jets, not the mains? If you did change the mains, you'll want to put them back to the originals too, just so we are starting with a known baseline.
Now, cross your fingers  and try starting the engine. With everything set like this it should start fine - maybe it will idle and maybe it wont, but it should start and run if you play with the throttle and it shouldn't fall on it's face when you step on the gas. Try these items and let me know the outcome, we'll talk about setting mixture and jetting after that.
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Post by Richie on Apr 17, 2021 20:08:31 GMT -8
Great info Chip, thanks! I'm gonna work on it tomorrow morning, we'll see how it goes. I picked up a new regulator, so hopefully I can fine tune the PSI. I rebuilt carb a little while back, so I'm pretty sure the float should be good to go. Now the idle speed screw I may need to take a look at. I remember watching a video of a weber rebuild and the guy mentioned the enriching ports right above the butter fly, so maybe that needs some adjustment. I'll let you know how it goes. If you dont see a super excited post, it may have gone bad...
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Post by chip on Apr 23, 2021 11:13:17 GMT -8
I almost hate to ask, but . . . . how did it go?
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Post by Richie on May 10, 2021 18:24:08 GMT -8
Hahaha, I was afraid to try it again! It took me a while to get back to it, I've been kind of avoiding it by doing cosmetic stuff that keeps me motivated. So I put in the new regulator today and fired it up. Its started out at around 4 PSI on my gauge and it was still stinking of fuel, so I dropped it down, then down more and then even more! The bogging seems like it went away and the gauge says 1.5 PSI... I think theres something wrong with my gauge, because it sat there and idled until it warmed up, so I think if it was really 1.5, it would have run out of fuel in the bowl right??? I got it up to operating temp and it seems like it did the trick, I'm going to out the seat back in this weekend (floors all welded and rhino-lined now) and try it out. I'll keep y'all updated.
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Post by Richie on Aug 19, 2021 21:45:22 GMT -8
Ok, so I found out that my freaking vacuum advance isn't working... I sucked on the hose going to it and there was no resistance, so I started the search for parts...
Finding a new vac advance by itself was a little rough, so I found and bought a rebuilt distributor because it was actually cheaper than buying a 25 dollar vac advance from the gougers on Ebay who were selling it for 80-125 bucks.
The new distributor has points, so I figured I would try them out before swapping back to the pertronix conversion from my old dizzy. I had to re-stab the distributor in a different position, but it made a huge difference! Better throttle response and the bogging went away! I need to do some more tuning, like adjusting carb, setting the points and cleaning the plugs, but I think I'll be driving the ol shitbox this weekend!
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and try starting the engine. With everything set like this it should start fine - maybe it will idle and maybe it wont, but it should start and run if you play with the throttle and it shouldn't fall on it's face when you step on the gas.