Post by torq4u on Mar 27, 2016 17:59:57 GMT -8
from StanceWorks . www.stanceworks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=56951
Welding tips found in this thread
TIG
- Machine must be set to AC for aluminum and DC for steel
- Aluminum should be welded with a positive electrode (hooked up to the + plug on your welder)
- Steel can be welded with a positive or negative electrode. A positive electrode (DCEP) will result in higher penetration. A negative electrode (DCEN) will result in a cooler puddle which is more suited for thin metals to avoid blowing through.
- Don't weld with your piece flat on the table; the table will become a massive heatsink
- Red tungsten (2% thoriated) can be used for all metals: aluminum, stainless, and mild steel, brass
(I personally prefer 1.5% or 2% Lanthanated but I am by no means an expert)
- 1/16" Tungsten for steel and 3/32" Tungsten for aluminum
- Metal must be thoroughly clean and uncontaminated
- Learn to weld on mild steel. Then upgrade to stainless. Then aluminum; it is the most difficult.
- Know your material and how it holds/disperses heat.
- Tungsten should be ground to a sharp point using an uncontaminated grinder.
- Point the tungsten upward so the grain from grinding it will be going lengthwise on the electrode.
- For joining aluminum (or other metals), keep the tungsten very close, and wash to the two together (very light side to side movement). If they do not bond immediately, STOP. Let it cool and try again.
- (aluminum) A shiny bead means a good weld. Cracks on the backside of the weld are no good.
- (stainless) A shiny and colorful weld means the heat and speed are correct. If the weld is dark and matte then it was either too hot or too slow or had poor gas coverage (try a few seconds of post-flow and the largest cup you have). Also consider purchasing a gas lens.
- 85 amps is a good general starting point for aluminum regardless of thickness (within reason)
- Learn to use the pedal before the button control. This will help you understand the concept behind what you're doing.
- Keep the tungsten as close to the metal as you can
- TIG is all about angles and keeping the arc tight
- Try using a smaller filler rod (.035, .045 and 1/16 should cover most anything exhaust related)
- You want a slight convex shape to your weld especially on tubing.
- Welding without filler rod is called "fusing" and acceptable for non-load bearing joints (ie. some exhaust tubing)
MIG
- Perfect starter welding system
- Less expensive alternative...good ones can be found at Harbor Freight
- A gas MIG welder is preferred
- Don't skimp on safely! Get a good helmet (same for TIG welding)
- Practice
- Clean the surface thoroughly
- There are some online references for amps, wire speed, and other variables Recommended wire settings, Heat settings, Bead illustrations
- Weld in a pattern that resembles a string of cursive lowercase l's Read more on this here
- If the backside of the piece looks like it was welded too, then you have good penetration
